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Bigger, Faster, Better

November 27, 2007 By NightOwl

The basic appliances in our homes are becoming less basic each year. Refrigerators are getting larger with separate temperature zones, dishwashers sanitize dishes and washers clean with less water than you would think possible.

Let’s start with washers. At the Columbus Dispatch , Kevin Kidder writes:

About 30 percent of washers sold are front loaders, which use 65 percent less water and 35 percent less electricity.

The complaint against front loaders used to be that putting clothes into them was a pain.

But manufacturers have added up to 18-inch pedestals on the bottom, elevating the machine and easing the strain on aching backs.

The machines achieve their efficiency through the horizontally oriented tubs, which don’t need to fill to wash clothes. They also spin faster than predecessors, meaning more water is removed from the fabric before it goes into the dryer.

Refrigerators aren’t just larger, they are 45% more efficient than they were in 1990. Another nod to saving resources is filtered water through the fridge. No more buying bottled water.

For those consumers who are concerned about the air in their refrigerator, “Sub-Zero will offer an ‘air-scrubbing system’ to eliminate bacteria and odor in the refrigerator air. The molecules from those odors won’t settle on the foods, altering the flavors.” One really big change in refrigerators is “new refrigerator drawers, which are stand alone units that, as the name would suggest, are shaped like under-the-counter drawers. They are about 2 feet wide, pull out like a drawer and have several cubic feet of storage.”

Moving on to ranges and ovens,

Ovens now commonly have convection fans that reduce cooking times. Many are dual-fuel — electric oven, gas range — combining the best methods of cooking for each. Electric ovens require 220-volt outlets.

Some ovens also have accompanying warming drawers, designed to stay lower than 200 degrees.

Some newer models keep foods moist by injecting steam into the cooking cavern.

Using steam preserves the nutrients in vegetables and is good for other foods that need moisture such as souffles, said Sue Scatterday, commercial sales specialist with Builders Appliance Supply on the Far East Side.
With ranges, an older technology from the 1970s — induction cooking — has been refined and could be the next big trend in stovetop cooking. With induction cooking, magnetic fields heat the iron cooking pot directly; the surface of the range remains cool to the touch.

Gas ranges have evolved, as well. More people want the professional look of industrial burners and stainless steel.

With those higher temperature burners, hoods have become more powerful yet quieter.

“Because we’re seeing so many, we stress that you need the large hoods,” she said. And because newer houses are so airtight, some people actually need “air makeup systems” that allow air to flow into the house so the hood can work properly.

Then we have dishwashers- the newer ones are drying hotter and using 39% less energy than in 1990. Dishwashers are also available in under-the-counter drawer styles, allowing for multiple work stations in kitchen design. I’m personally especially pleased with how quiet the new dishwashers are.

Today’s appliances are performing better, more efficiently, and with less effort than ever.

Filed Under: Cooking, Dishwasher, Gas Range, Kitchen, News, Oven, Refrigerators and Freezers, Washing Machine

Great Music, Great Gift

November 26, 2007 By NightOwl

The Sansa Shaker is a little, pink or blue, kid’s dream come true. I’ve listened to it with my kids-it comes with ports for two headsets- and the sound is fabulous! Sansa Shaker It retails for around $29-$39 depending on the memory you want. Check out a comprehensive review at TechTalk.net. This MP3 player is fun, easy to use and well priced.

Filed Under: Consumer Electronics, Household, Multimedia, News

Recall:Cooper Lighting Recalls Fluorescent Shop Lights Due to Electrical Shock Hazard

November 23, 2007 By Appliance

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

 Name of Product: Metalux Fluorescent Shop Lights

Units: About 274,000

Distributor: Cooper Lighting Inc., a division of Cooper Industries, of Houston, Texas

Hazard: When the two prongs on the plug’s electrical cord are touched simultaneously while lamps are installed, the light can pose an electric shock hazard to consumers.

Incidents/Injuries: Cooper Lighting has received six reports of consumers experiencing an electric shock. No serious injuries have occurred.

Description and Model: This recall involves the Metalux fluorescent shop lights Model 9240. Only date codes between December 1, 2006 (“344 06”) and September 14, 2007 (“257 07”) are included in this recall. The date code format includes the day and the year. For example, “344 06” refers to the 344th day of year 2006, or December 1, 2006. The model number and date code can be found on the packaging and on labels adhered to the fixture housing.

Sold at: Major home center and hardware stores nationwide from January 2007 to October 2007 for between $8 and $10.

Manufactured in: China

Remedy: Consumers should stop using the light fixture immediately and uninstall it according to instructions posted at www.cooperlighting.com. The fixture should be returned to the place of purchase for a full refund or credit.

Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Cooper Lighting at (800) 440-1676 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday or visit the firm’s Web site at www.cooperlighting.com

Picture of Recalled Fluorescent Shop Light

Picture of label

Picture of label

Picture of plug

Filed Under: News, Recalls

Don’t Clean Your Oven Today!

November 21, 2007 By NightOwl

Here’s a very good tip from Appliance411:
as, garberator, microwave, oven, range, stove, refrigerator, automatic and clothes washers or washing machines

Helpful and money saving tips from APPLIANCE411! Oven Cleaning
Clean your oven *well* in advance of a dinner party! It is not usually a good idea to try self-cleaning an oven *immediately* prior to a big dinner. Cleaning a week or more in advance would allow service to be scheduled should a problem arise. They often do… and at the of worst times.

Filed Under: Cooking, Kitchen, Oven, _ Tips

HE Washers Need HE Detergent

November 20, 2007 By NightOwl

When I got my new frontloading, high efficiency(HE) washer, I was told I could use a smaller amount of regular detergent or buy the more expensive high efficiency(HE) detergent.  It was up to me, there would be little difference other than a bit more sudsing with the regular soap.  I decided to start with the HE detergent and discovered that it sudses up too. In fact, I had to cut back to half the amount of HE detergent per load or the washer stopped, flashing an error code.  Now, by using half, the cost was equal too.

It seems that the sudsing is an issue for many people, some feel you need it, others don’t care, but the real concern should be- are the clothes clean?  I’ve been looking around and found that fixitnow.com has some great (although sometimes quirky) answers to the HE vs regular detergent question.

You have to start with the understanding that the tumble action of high-efficiency washers (i.e., front loaders) produce more suds than the agitator action in top loaders. Now most of people think, “Oooo, sudsy, that’s good!” No, not good. Suds do nothing to clean your clothes and are actually an undesirable by-product of the detergent’s chemical interaction with the water.
The main job of detergents is to remove soils and stains. They do this by breaking down the surface tension of water, in effect, making water “wetter.” The water is what actually does the cleaning by slipping in between the [dirt] and the fabric, separating them and suspending the [dirt] in solution.

Detergents are designed to freshen, remove odors, and brighten fabrics as they clean. Another key detergent function is to hold [dirt], and any dyes from colored fabrics, suspended in the wash water so they aren’t re-deposited back onto the cleaned clothes. Traditional detergents are designed to do this in high water volumes used by conventional, top-loading water hog washers.
If you think about it, using HE detergent in your front loader is really common sense. Because of the low-water wash and rinse cycles in HE washers, HE detergents must work differently from traditional laundry detergents in order to be effective. So, a bunch of them pointy-headed scientist types with all kinds of fancy degrees hung on their walls got together to design detergents that would be low-sudsing and quick-dispersing to get the best cleaning performance in front-loading washers.
Excessive sudsing can cause problems in HE washers by “cushioning” — or even preventing — the tumbling action. HE detergents also hold soils and dyes in suspension in low water volumes, so they don’t re-deposit onto cleaned clothes.
Excess suds can cause the washer’s pump to overheat causing premature failure of the pump. These excess suds also cause residue to build up inside the drum and hoses. After a while, your washer will start giving off a moldy funk and infecting your clothes with its faint, musky stink.
Low wash temperatures and/or use of regular detergent (which causes excess suds) may prevent some [dirt] from completely rinsing out of the front-loading washing machines. Oily soils and some dirt-type soils are especially sensitive to lower wash temperatures and medium to high suds levels. Over time, [dirt] will accumulate in the washer and lead to the growth of bacteria and mold, which we professional appliantologists refer to as bio-gookus. This bio-gookus will start stinking and may even impart odors to your clothes. To avoid all this unpleasantness, you should periodically run a maintenance cycle on your front-loader.

The Fix it now folks suggest the following to run a maintenance cycle:

1. Select the hot water setting. If there is no hot water setting, then select a “white” or a “stain” cycle setting. (Note: do not put laundry in the washer.)

2. Select the “extra rinse” option, if offered.

3. Add liquid chlorine bleach to the bleach dispenser. Fill to its maximum level.

4. Run the cycle through its completion.

5. If the washer does not have a second rinse option, manually select an additional rinse cycle to ensure that no chlorine bleach remains in your washer.

6. If your washer still has a funk, repeat steps 1 through 5 as necessary.

BTW, this is good to do periodically on top-loaders, too.

I switched to HE detergent from the start with my front loader, and after reading this, I’m glad I did. These washers are an expensive investment, and I want mine to last a long time.

Filed Under: Washing Machine, _ Tips

Cook Safely This Holiday Season

November 19, 2007 By NightOwl

With the joy of the holidays comes the joy of delicious food- and someone has to cook it.  If that someone is you, you might want to take a look at the Association of Home Appliances Manufacturers (AHAM)safety page.  There, you can order brochures, read safety tips and learn facts like these:

  • The range-top was involved in nearly 8 of every 10 cooking fires.
  • In nearly 3/4 of the fires reported (73%), the person responsible for the fire was not in the area when the fire started.
  • The other major causes of cooking fires reported were grease, food left on the range, and combustible materials on the range-top.
  • In nearly 2/3 of the fires (64%), people in the residence did not attempt to fight the fire but left the area.
  • Unfortunately, one-half of the people who did try to fight the fire, did it incorrectly, further endangering themselves and their families.
  • A larger percentage of the cooking fires were caused by people in the age range of 19 – 69 than is represented by their percentage of the overall population.
  • One-half of the cooking fires reported were caused by people between the age of 30 – 49.

The age range of 19-69 and 30-49 being overrepresented makes sense to me since that is the age of most family members who are the cooks in the family. So, if you are the family chef, cook carefully and have a delicious holiday.

Filed Under: Cooking, Gas Range, Kitchen, News, Ranges Ovens and Cooktops, _ Tips

Viking Fridge Review

November 18, 2007 By NightOwl

If you are in the market for a new, large refrigerator and you would like to get a custom, built-in look with standard cabinets, this just might be the fridge for you.

Filed Under: Kitchen, Refrigerators and Freezers, Reviews, Video Tagged With: Viking Fridge review

Sharp Introduces New Line of Microwaves

November 18, 2007 By NightOwl

Sharp launched a new line of heavy-duty compact microwave ovens designed to accommodate the limited space designs of busy commercial kitchens. The new line, which includes the 1200-watt R-CD1200M, 1800-watt R-CD1800M, and 2200-watt R-CD2200M, is redesigned to have a small footprint and a 0.7-cubic-foot cooking cavity. New TwinTouch dual controls make the microwaves ideal for crowded kitchens, allowing users to easily operate the oven no matter where it is located.

The new models feature dual control panels, one along the top of the unit and another on the bottom edge along the door. In many kitchens, the microwave is placed on a high shelf, which makes accessing the standard control panel challenging. In those situations, users can opt to use the more readily accessible bottom-mounted controls, which eliminates reaching up to the top of the microwave.

Models R-CD1200M, R-CD1800M, and R-CD2200M will be available in early 2008.

Filed Under: Cooking, Kitchen, Microwave Oven, Small Appliances

Induction Cooking is Hot- and Cool

November 16, 2007 By NightOwl

Induction cooking has been around for a while, but it seems that in North America it is just beginning to assert itself.  I’ve recently learned more about how the technology works from some helpful sites. 

At choice.com.au they offer a clear explanation about the magnetic fields:

Each ‘element’ (an induction coil) generates a magnetic field that induces heat in steel cookware placed on top of it. In essence, the pot becomes the element that cooks the food, so the cooktop surface doesn’t get as hot as other cooktops. Induction cooktops have the same instant control as gas and are the fastest of all cooktop types to heat and cook food — for example, they take about half the time of conventional electric cooktops to boil water.

They go on to explain that induction cooktops are smooth surfaces that are extremely easy to keep clean.

Because the heat is contained by the vessel, the cooking surface doesn’t get hot.  This picture shows that induction cooking is hot and cool.

Another site, theinductionsite.com, has very thorough explanations of induction cooking and even includes some simple drawings like this one below with clearly labeled descriptions.

diagram of induction process

How Induction Cooking Works:

  1. The element’s electronics power a coil that produces a high-frequency electromagnetic field.
  2. The field penetrates the metal of the ferrous (magnetic-material) cooking vessel and sets up a circulating electric current, which generates heat.
  3. The heat generated in the cooking vessel is transferred to the vessel’s contents.
  4. Nothing outside the vessel is affected by the field–as soon as the vessel is removed from the element, or the element turned off, heat generation stops.

(Image courtesy of Induction Cooking World)
As mentioned in point two in the diagram, pots and pans must be made of a ferrous, or magnetic metal.  One way to check if your current pans are ferrous is to see if a magnet will stick to them.  If your pans do not have a ferrous metal base, you will need to consider the cost of some new cookware along with the generally steep cost of these cooktops. (I found them online for $1,800-$5,000.) There are some induction ranges in the works that can use other metals, but they’re not available yet.

I had concerns about the magnetic fields generated by the coil, and discovered that they are not completely unfounded. People with pacemakers should take precautions near the range and might want to check with their doctors before getting one. Theinductionsite has a whole page dedicated to the controversy surrounding radiation from electromagnetic waves.

There seem to be plenty of both pros and cons to induction cooking- lower energy use saves money, but the cooktop is expensive and may require new cookware.  Food cooks more quickly, but new techniques must be learned.  The safety of the burner going off automatically if there is no pot on it, but the pots slide easily and could get unintentionally bumped so the food won’t cook.  If you are shopping for a new range there is a lot to consider about induction cooking and the choice will be a personal one.

Filed Under: Cooking, Kitchen, News, Ranges Ovens and Cooktops, Reviews, _ Tips

How a Vacuum Works

November 15, 2007 By NightOwl

If you take a minute now to visit www.howstuffworks.com, you will be prepared the next time a small child asks you how the vacuum works.  This site gives a clear, and very detailed description of a vacuum’s mechanics.

Diagram of a vacuum cleaner

When you plug the vacuum cleaner in and turn it on, this is what happens:

  1. The electric current operates the airplane propeller).
  2. As the fan blades turn, they force air forward, toward the exhaust port (check out How Airplanes Work to find out what causes this).
  3. When air particles are driven forward, the density of particles (and therefore the air pressure) increases in front of the fan and decreases behind the fan.

This pressure drop behind the fan is just like the pressure drop in the straw when you sip from your drink. The pressure level in the area behind the fan drops below the pressure level outside the vacuum cleaner (the ambient air pressure). This creates suction, a partial vacuum, inside the vacuum cleaner. The ambient air pushes itself into the vacuum cleaner through the intake port because the air pressure inside the vacuum cleaner is lower than the pressure outside.

As long as the fan is running and the passageway through the vacuum cleaner remains open, there is a constant stream of air moving through the intake port and out the exhaust port. But how does a flowing stream of air collect the dirt and debris from your carpet? The key principle is friction.

 

Filed Under: Household, News, Vacuum Cleaners

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