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Kitchen and Home Appliance Forum : Fisher Paykel dishdrawer

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Fisher Paykel dishdrawer


5:55 am
January 23, 2011



posts 160


If you pull the drawer out there will be 2 round plugs, toward the front, that you remove, then there are 2 tabs that you depress that are in the slides, toward the front, then you can push the slides back and drawer will be free, the hoses contected to the rear will stay connected so you need to rotate drawer to the side, its tight but you will be able to lay drawer on its side to get to inside of unit.  After you remove the tub I would also remove the board and look at the backside [of board]to see if there are any burn marks on it. If nothing looks burnt on board try the plug thing and see what happens.   

7:12 am
January 22, 2011




i did some research it is harness number 526750 and it is the tab connector that seems to plug into the main filter board that shorted out. will i need to replace the filter board also? and it seems limited to the the area that plugs into the board. and any help in disasembly would be greatly appreciated cause i cant figure out how to fully remove the drawer to get ful access to it.

2:29 pm
January 21, 2011



posts 160


F1 is a flood code,   Most green wires on any unit is usually ground wires, most that I have seen are just 1/4 in. tab connetcors, available at most home stores [lowes, home depot, radio shack, etc.] If it is a special connector, you will most likely have to get a whole  wire harness assemly,  you will probaly have to go to a F/P servicer or F/P themselves to get it. If you still have suds in the tub, vegetable oil is the best thing to use, pour a couple of tablespoons and run it [when you get wire and board fixed] it will kill suds very fast. 

10:00 pm
January 20, 2011




I have a dd603 and recieved an f1 error after my child “accidently” put dish soap instead of dishwashing detergent. We unplugged the unit because it smelled smokey. after we removed the bottom drawer we saw a burned whole in the large grey cover over the main filter board. after we removed the cover we found that the connector on the green wires that affix to the mains board had melted rather severly. i have found the main filter board online however i can not seem to find the green wires or new connectors. does anyone know the part number or where i could possibly find them so i can get this unit working again.

7:32 am
January 7, 2010



posts 160


Mr. Brady,   Sorry you look down on Techs so much. Most of us are Honest people just trying to make a living. There are dis-honest people out there, just like in any industry. As far as F/P goes, like I stated before, I have not had that many problems with them.I have one in my home for 4 years and have not had a problem with it. It was installed correctly and I think that has a lot to do with it. NO not all F-1 codes are lid motors, I have had people not load machine correctly, and water valves leak, lid seals split [this usually happens when a long knife is put in silverware basket and it pokes the seal, cutting it, the bracket holding the hoses in the back of drawer getting caught on seal, etc. I have not heard of F/P having any problems company wide, I think everyone is down now because of many reasons, economy being the number one issue. And no F/P does not pay me any more than any other manufacture.   And your K/A has more plastic on it than any F/P.   EVERYBODY rebadges to Kenmore. Whirlpool [Who owns Kitchen-Aid, more than anybody]       My opinion.              Servicetech  

10:05 pm
January 5, 2010

S. Brady



servicetech said:

GB3,  I do not know of any fault code that goes directly to seal, the seal has no “sensor” to tell you that, F1 is a code that shows water in base pan. It is usally the seal or motors that causes this code. Display issues can be many things, display , control board, light pipe,   sensor for light pipe,  harness's,  wire connections, power issues.  Is it showing any fault codes?  Parts and look ups,  as far as I know, are only avilable through Fisher-Paykel.  

F1 in your manual states to immediately cut the water supply (turn off) and cut the electricity.  The main wire going to the motors with electricity is in the water pans.

So don't run your dishwasher and not be around!  Matter of fact, every F code ends up with calling an authorized FP dealer. 

Now, this is great if your home, but if your not, after spending over $1500.00 with tax I expect less than a dozen service calls, replaced motors and every “F” code in the book.  We got the F1 while not at home, water continued to flow until we got home, ruined solid oak kitchen floor ruined, each board looked like a canoe, then, down to basement, home theatre room, Runco projector (17K) and on and on.

Here is what I would do after I spend that kind of money on a product that is at the top price point in Dishwashers:…..vr1BJ3BkGw

Put in two knew stainless steel Kitchen Aids, double the washing power, haven't seen a tech in over a year since new, now that's nice.  And you know what, we can run them when we leave the house or go to sleep.  The heck with them, I will not have anything to do with them.

Read Fisher Paykel's annual report in New Zealand, they are going literally going down the drain (before the U.S. recession).  Sales down, CEO fired, Dishdrawer plant planned for United States, scratched, dealers have dropped lines, they have tried to rebadge under Kenmore and a few other brands, it's just a great looking product that behind those fancy drawers is pure plastic tubes that can't handle daily stretching every time you pull them in and out.  Service from New Zealand to Southern California, terrible, rude.  I was out about 15K on a F1, not that great.  Runco home theatre projectors depreciate quickly.  Do you really feel you should have to do all this after buying the most expensive dishwasher on the market?  Read Australian (Consumer Reports similar publication), the U.K's similar edition and the United States CR, not just my anecdotal story here.   Sure, the techs love them, FP pays them like crazy, F codes mean cash as you say.  The margins on these things are huge, but you won't find them very many retailers anymore.  My dealer who was a remodeling shop dropped them, they were ruining his reputation.  

7:28 am
April 26, 2009

S Barclay



I have had a number of F1 errors over the years – but they are really very very simple to fix.  Pull out the drawers, push in the two little plastic tabs at the bottom front sides to unhook the drawer and pull it forward – the drawer is attached to the hoses at the back so you should only be able to pull about 4 inches forward – enough to get your hand in.  Use a towel to mop out the bottom of the base unit (actually the bottom of the top  and the bottom of the lower unit).  Then you a hairdryer or other hot air device to dry it out properly.  

The F1 error occurs when one of the drawers leaks for some reason – the unit detects leakage and stops it, which of course saves your kitchen from flooding.  The most common reasons for leakage are overloading (meaning basically that something – often a big plate) is higher than the top of the lid, and so the lid doesn't close properly.  In my experience the issue is rarely with the lid itself.

I  have also heard of plenty of appliance call out technicians who are more than happy to turn a basic F1 flood issue into a new motor or two – which is of course a more expensive repair.  In the case of the person who had two motors replaced for an F1 error – thats kid of like taking in your car to get the aircon fixed, and getting a new engine instead.  You have an expensive new engine – but the aircon is likely to still not work.


6:30 am
April 23, 2009



posts 160


GB3,  I do not know of any fault code that goes directly to seal, the seal has no “sensor” to tell you that, F1 is a code that shows water in base pan. It is usally the seal or motors that causes this code. Display issues can be many things, display , control board, light pipe,   sensor for light pipe,  harness's,  wire connections, power issues.  Is it showing any fault codes?  Parts and look ups,  as far as I know, are only avilable through Fisher-Paykel.  

7:37 pm
April 15, 2009


New Member

posts 1


I have a Double Drawer Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher model number DD603 SS. The keypad has been going crazy and it was not working so I called a repair person out. The diagnostic showed that the seal on the bottom of the (top) drawer had moisture and the technician felt that that was causing the control board to malfunction which in turn caused the keypad to go crazy. He then wanted to charge me $200 labor (in addition to the $50 service call) to replace a $19 seal but could not be sure that this was the fix. If it weren't then he would return and charge me more to replace the control board. I did not have him “repair” the dishwasher as I am still not sure what is the problem. Is the seal something I would be able to change myself and if so how would I find the part number?

9:07 am
April 8, 2009




Wow – for $500 you could just get a new dishwasher!  The ones you have are expensive and they just seem like trouble!

6:27 am
April 7, 2009



posts 160


The 2 units are really independent of each other except for a power board in the bottom of the unit. That is where the sensor that is giving you the F1 code is located. If you can get the lower drawer out you can see the water in the base pan, where the water is coming from is the thing that can be trickey.     PLEASE UNPLUG THE UNIT BEFORE ATTEMTING TO REMOVE THE TUB!!!  POWER IS AT THE LOWER BOARD EVEN WITH UNITS OFF!!!!!

12:29 pm
April 6, 2009




Thank you so much for your reply.  We are sooo frustrated at this point with this dishwasher. 

The repair was replacing the motor, and at that time, the tech told us the same thing – be very careful how we load.  I have been meticulous about knives and other things sticking up and I am stll getting the F1 error message.  I don't know what else to do, I'm not spending another $500.

We have two dishdrawers, they are stacked.  Could that have anything to do with this?

They have both needed repairs, but the error is with the top unit.

Thanks again!

8:47 am
April 6, 2009



posts 160


The lid motors are usally the problem when you have a flood F1 code.  Do you know what they replaced for $500 ?    Also, you need to watch what how you load machine and make sure nothing sticks above the tub, the lid motors will only pull down so far if somthing is sticking up. It won't allow the lid to fully close allowing water to come over edge of tub.  

3:59 pm
March 30, 2009




We have a F/P dishdrawer that's about 5 years old.  I get an F1 flood message.  I had it repaired before to the tune of $500.  They fixed the seal.  That was less than a year ago and we are getting the F1 message again.  Any thoughts!


9:24 am
March 27, 2009



posts 160


Have been  working in f/p d/w for around 10-12 years, The only major proplems is instalation issues. They are very “install correct” items. The drain is the most problem, they have to have a “high loop”. I have not heard of any more problems with them.

6:23 pm
March 25, 2009




What fixes the drain then?  Does it require a repair call? 

7:41 pm
March 6, 2009




I own one and sell and I haven't had a problem with them. The only problem that may happen is the drain line isn't elevated high enough and the bottom drawer doesn't drain correctly.

8:26 pm
March 5, 2009




I've heard that Fisher/Paykel isn't doing too well.  Are they another compny about to go belly up?

11:14 pm
March 2, 2009




We've been getting some comments at about problems with the Fisher Paykel dishdrawer.  If you have any thoughts to share about your experience with them, please share them here.

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